Sparkling for the table and the toast. Whites with structure and finish. Rosé and red where the vintage shows. Bolle from Burgundy, twice-fermented to recover what dealcoholization usually loses. Woody's, California brightness. St. Buena Vida, a Catalan aperitif. La Petite Victoire, a French Blanc de Blancs. Les Marées, coastal Provence in the glass.